Yoga pose in an enchanted setting © Bertrand Siess[/caption]
An hour's drive from the Ocean, on the borders of Labourd and Navarre, at the foot of the Iparla ridges along the high Compostela route, there exists a small, preserved paradise accessible only to those in the know... It is in this natural "sanctuary" that I take you, where natural waterfalls rival the most beautiful rock pools, where griffon vultures can easily be observed along vertiginous cliffs, where stories of smugglers and shepherds mingle with the remains of Roman-era gold mines…
This green gem is open to all those curious about unspoilt nature, to lovers of isolated valleys and hidden paths beneath exuberant vegetation.
At the end of the hike, in a shaded clearing lulled by the reassuring sound of the river, I offer you a yoga session in the heart of nature accessible to all… Nothing better to lighten body and mind, and soak up even more of this magical place.
Walking and swimming in the heart of a lost valley, under the sharp eye of the griffon vultures
The hike begins along Baztanko erreka (the Baztan river) with a spectacular panorama along the cliffs, where the slender silhouettes of dozens of griffon vultures are already visible in the sky. There, standing quite modestly, is Baxasagar (the farm with wild apple trees), still in operation, and its famous iratze meta (fern haystacks).
An old pastoral path will lead us to errota (the mill) through open meadows and a few restored borde (shepherds' huts). These border mills served from the Napoleonic era to supply troops until the retreat of 1813, then throughout the 19th century during the Carlist civil wars in Spain. They were used to stock up during the constant back-and-forth of families, shepherds, smugglers and all manner of border crossers through this "administrative" border so arbitrary to the Basques.
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The magical swimming spot of Aritzacun© Bertrand Siess[/caption]
Near the dyke and the dried-up millrace, the more adventurous can swim or cool off in the river that originally served as the natural border between Iparralde (the 3 provinces of the Northern Basque Country, on the French side) and Hegoalde (the 4 provinces of the Southern Basque Country, on the Spanish side). After crossing to the left bank, we will venture ever further upstream through waterfalls and lush vegetation, towards a village abandoned in the 1980s and gradually restored.
This village (which still housed more than thirty families after the war!) was abandoned because the only exit from the valley to the south was closed to civilians. At the summit, on the plateau of Gorramendi (the red mountain), NATO forces had been stationed from the 1950s onwards, cutting off all escape routes for the local population. The surroundings of Gorramendi thus remained a kind of "terra incognita" on military maps before being dismantled in the 1990s.
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Smugglers' path© Bertrand Siess[/caption]
The return will take us through the sasi (ferns and bushes) along a superb smugglers' path on a balcony route still passable thanks to the near-permanent presence of pottocks (small Basque mountain horses) and manex (a local dairy sheep breed). In the 1970s, on these border paths patrolled by a mobile customs service that was more or less lenient and "participatory", dozens of herds of cattle and sheep crossed the border daily: spare parts for "Citroën" heading south, lace heading north!
Ascent of the forgotten muleteer's path to observe the vultures at their nesting boxes
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One of the vulture observation viewpoints © Bertrand Siess[/caption]
The more athletic will have the option to access the plateau directly via a steep path (450 metres) now abandoned by livestock and carved into the rock with natural stone slabs. While the path may feel vertiginous for some, it remains a little-known royal route that allows you to observe griffon vulture nesting boxes at close range, females brooding and even the soft down of juveniles with the naked eye! (from March onwards).
We are here in a natural reserve still accessible, where more than 500 pairs of vultures find both shelter… and sustenance! Indeed, the Basque mountains are home to many grazing animals: pottocks (small Basque horses), ardiak (sheep), ahuntzak, behiak, urdeak (goats, cows, pigs…). The vultures can thus more easily feed on natural carcasses or even on voluntary charnel sites left by farmers at altitude, without having to travel hundreds of kilometres to feed. Furthermore, this historic site is a prime observation spot for enthusiasts…
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Walking in the water© Bertrand Siess[/caption]
On the plateau at 650 metres, where the panorama opens to the south as far as Pic d'Orrhy (the highest peak in the Basque Country at 2,017 metres), overlooking two vertiginous waterfalls, the nascent rivers have carved into the landscape and offer us superb micro-valleys rarely explored: Gardens of Eden beneath the shaded beech forest with brilliant light and natural rock pools…
We can follow the watercourse "feet in the water", at the heart of a rich and ever denser nature along the banks that have become impassable: an exotic hike even for the most seasoned!
Yoga session in an enchanting natural setting
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Yoga session in the heart of nature© Bertrand Siess[/caption]
At the end of the hike, in order to absorb even more of this landscape so surprising close to the ocean, nothing beats a quiet moment of rest for body and mind. Through simple attention to surrounding sounds and one's breathing, after a few stretching postures, simple concentration exercises and a moment of relaxation, I will guide you above all towards a moment of inner presence, attuned to your own feelings.
Here is a hiking and yoga route I invite you to share in the Basque Country, always seeking greater authenticity and personal integrity. For me, it is an eternal source of wonder to share such captivating places and offer such an escape to all kinds of audiences: from families with children to groups of active adults.
By way of introduction, I have been guiding groups in the mountains for 19 years and have been teaching traditional yoga on the Basque coast for 6 years. I chose to live and work in Euskal Herria, between Sea and Mountain, because it is a concentration of exceptionally varied landscapes, combined with a complex terrain, unpredictable weather and of course a turbulent history and a vibrant traditional culture.
"For more information, feel free to visit my website and check out my photo album as well as other themed hiking trips. For your next holiday in the Basque Country, contact me by email"
Milesker Ikusarte, Thank you and see you soon, Bertrand SIESS
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