Back from an expedition in the Vilcanota mountain range, Peru.
His passion for the Andes took hold more than 10 years ago during a year-long backpacking trip around Latin America. Since then, Stéphane has never stopped sharing his passion in two ways: through photography (
www.yunka-images.com) and the organisation of treks and expeditions (
www.yunka-trek.com). His base camp today is Cusco, Peru, where he spends a large part of the year.
Cimalp: Stéphane, what was one of the highlights of your 2014 season in the Andes?
Stéphane:
Last June, we organised a lengthy expedition to the Vilcanota mountain range for a group of 4 clients. It lasted 14 days in total. Vilcanota is close to Cusco — a kind of ultimate glacial rampart before plunging down towards the low Amazonian plains. In my view, it is one of the wildest mountain ranges in Peru. It is primarily known for a trek that has grown in popularity: the Ausangate circuit (5 days). Of course, this range is an unlimited playground and the routes are numerous. The expedition unfolded in two stages: first, a grand traverse of the neighbouring ranges of Ccallangate and then Vilcanota, followed by the crowning achievement — the ascent of Nevado Ausangate (6,383 m). Before attempting this ascent, we crossed 5 passes above 4,800 m and completed the non-technical ascent of an adjacent summit, Huayruro Punco (5,350 m), in order to perfect our acclimatisation and arrive in peak physical condition for the main climb.
Cimalp: How is the logistics of such an expedition organised?
Stéphane:
Due to its isolated and truly wild character, the range offers no resupply options along the way. We therefore set off from Cusco in full self-sufficiency for the duration of the route. We are accompanied by muleteer friends from the village of Tinqui. For this expedition we had 3 muleteers and 10 mules. A trek cook is also part of the adventure. Nutrition is particularly important on this kind of long itinerary. We try to set off with as many cool fresh products from Cusco as possible, and the cook works hard to vary the menus as much as possible, ensuring participants receive a good energy intake at key moments of the day. As for our high-mountain guides (UIAGM), they joined us at the Ausangate base camp on day 10.
Cimalp: How did the ascent of Ausangate go?
Stéphane:
This ascent unfolds in 3 stages: the approach to base camp (4,750 m), which we reached after our trek; the climb to high camp (or moraine camp) at 5,450 m; and then the ascent itself. The latter requires us to leave moraine camp around midnight. From there, we pick our way through a sometimes uncomfortable passage through the moraine lip, made up of rather impressive rocky blocks. We finally set foot on the glacier at an altitude of around 5,600 m to tackle a steep slope (50–55°). The fixed ropes installed beforehand assist our progress up to the first col at 6,000 m. From there, a long, nearly flat diagonal traverse awaits us (3 hours) to reach the second col and the summit ridge. One final short pitch — somewhat exposed but equipped with fixed ropes — must then be negotiated before reaching the summit of Ausangate, which tops out at 6,383 m. We were at the summit at 08:30 AM. The descent follows the same route (+6h00). The summit offers an absolutely breathtaking panorama over the Amazonian slopes, the Cusco valley and the surrounding ranges (Ccallangate, Vilcabamba…) and the altiplano as far as the eye can see.
Cimalp:Is technical gear required for such a trip?
Stéphane:
We plan this type of expedition between June and October. The best weather window is June — the coldest month — for technical ascents such as that of Ausangate. This period corresponds to the Andean winter. Nights are characterised by a dry cold, while the days are very sunny. Temperatures at night can drop to –15°C. During the day it is not uncommon to hike in a t-shirt. For the trekking section, we recommend the classic setup: On the lower body, high-upper shoes and technical trousers; on the upper body, a base layer or technical t-shirt, complemented by a fleece jumper and, above all, a good jacket offering waterproofing and breathability (often stowed at the bottom of the pack). For the ascent section, beyond the classic glacier travel equipment (rigid shell shoes, 12-point lugs, harness and accessories, 2 technical ice axes and helmet), we recommend combining a jacket and trousers of the type
hardshell for better thermal insulation.
Cimalp: Which products from our range do you typically use on trek?
Stéphane:
As for me, I am equipped with your Stretch 3D Intrepide + trousers. They combine lightweight construction, flexibility and quick-drying performance. On cooler days, I pair them with tights for extra warmth. The cut is very fitted, but their flexibility (stretch) makes them extremely comfortable. I also wear your 3-layer Dynamic 2 softshell jacket. It has never let me down across numerous treks over two seasons. Its membrane is highly effective and breathable, and its inner fleece lining makes it warm. Ideal at the start or end of the day. Worth noting: the hood (removable) is particularly well-designed and sits in perfect continuity with the jacket. A reliable staple.
"For ascents and high-mountain terrain, I recommend your softshell trousers range (e.g. LAOS4) for the lower body, and a jacket from your Ultrashell range (e.g. VINSON) for the upper body. Highly advanced products, perfectly suited to intensive use."
Cimalp: Finally, Stéphane, what are your plans for the upcoming season?
Stéphane:
To deepen our knowledge of the Vilcanota range, we are planning two new exploration trips in the coming months: one heading towards the summit of Ninaparaco (5,807 m), the southern summit of the Pico Tres or Jatun Pampa group, and the other to find a trekking access route from the Amazonian basin towards this same range.
