Been thinking about cycle touring for a while? You'll take the plunge into this wonderful two-wheeled adventure as you read the story of these two lovers of travel, gastronomy and cycling. Frédérique and Le Yin decided to explore Finland by bike and share their favourite discoveries, tips and advice here. Cycle touring — an experience not to be missed!
For the past few years, our summer holidays have meant cycling adventures on tour. After Denmark and northern Germany, this year we continued our cycle-touring adventures in another Nordic country — Finland, specifically in the lake district and the archipelago! It was an ideal route for discovering the diverse Finnish landscapes, from forest to sea.
For every trip, we never had a set itinerary before leaving — just vague ideas about regions to explore. That's the TRUE luxury of cycle touring: deciding your schedule at the last minute, having the freedom to change your plans mid-conversation with a local. There's something quite thrilling and joyful about it. Of course we have a broad outline, but we love leaving room for the unexpected. Gear for a cycling trip is perhaps the element that required the most anticipation and planning.
Time to hit the road by bike!
The trip began in the lake region — the central part of Finland — with Jyväskylä as our base. We were quickly fully immersed in the Finnish taiga, with some very pleasant cycle paths. At every stop, a dream setting of a lake and a jetty was never far away. Enough to tempt us in for a dip to cool down.
Then we loaded the bikes onto a train and headed for the west coast!
Through our conversations, and drawn by a love of the sea, we decided to pedal along the south-west coast, following the shoreline through the archipelago to the former capital, Turku. Yes — the archipelago, a name with Greek resonances to our ears, which didn't fail to catch our attention.
We loved the rhythm of alternating between cycling sessions and breaks on the ferries. These crossings from island to island across stretches of sea were a real highlight. For us, they were moments to pause, catch our breath, rehydrate — and above all admire the Archipelago islands from a different angle.
Finland: the perfect destination for cycle touring
Let's quickly reassure anyone hesitating to embark on a cycle-touring adventure in Finland: go for it! There are no major difficulties. The country is flat, with very little elevation gain — aside from the odd "bump", to use the word of a fellow cyclist we met along the way. And as in other Nordic countries, almost everything is adapted for cyclists, with good stretches of cycle paths all over the place. Where there are no dedicated paths and you have to share the road with cars, drivers are so considerate it's actually a pleasure. They slow down sufficiently, and will even let you tackle a hill or cross at your own pace. We alternated between wide cycle paths, forest tracks, and shared roads — which were, most of the time, blissfully empty.
We particularly loved our long morning escapes. Waking naturally at 6:30am, it wasn't unusual to be on the road by 8am. These moments were magical, almost hypnotic.
At those early-morning hours, not a car in sight — the tarmac or gravel was all ours. The near-perfect road quality meant we could focus less on our riding, letting our minds wander. We were often lost in our thoughts for long stretches. Better than therapy:-).
Then, around a bend in the path, we were brought back to reality in the most beautiful way imaginable. The cry of wild geese overhead pulled us out of our thoughts. Sometimes those famous V-formations migrating to distant lands would accompany us for a stretch of road before veering off course. At other times, our gaze was drawn to a roe deer or doe galloping in the distance to hide in the surrounding undergrowth, mistaking us for some kind of predator…
Small pleasures of travelling together (on two wheels)
Breathtaking landscapes
The roads that plunged into forests of towering firs were a delight. They offered us natural shelter from the cool breeze, with the added bonus of the wonderful scent of spruce and pine.
Along other paths, bushes dotted with small red and black berries forced us to stop for a spot of foraging. In Finland, berries and wild fruits are everywhere. There's nothing quite like that spontaneous little harvest during our outings. The raspberries and blueberries we picked in those fleeting moments had a very special flavour — so good it'll be hard to find anything as tasty back home.
Where there's a lake, there's a jetty — especially in Finland. It became our travel obsession. Stopping on a jetty for a meal, to catch our breath, take a photo, or simply take in the scenery. Any excuse was a good one to pull up at one of these wooden structures.
Accommodation as close to nature as possible
One of the best ways to experience Finland is probably the famous Laavu (similar to the shelters in Denmark) — shelters for picnicking and bivouacking with a dedicated barbecue area (essential), some basic overnight kit, and often an idyllic view. It's a wonderful way to get close to nature.
On the Archipelago in the south, however, there are very few Laavu available. So, as you now know, you can pitch your tent almost anywhere or opt for campsites. We chose the latter option and were pleasantly surprised.
The sauna: a true art de vivre
Löyly spirit — a Finnish state of mind! Löyly is the name of the steam created when you pour water over the hot stones in a sauna.
You simply can't go to Finland without discovering and trying the different types of sauna. We gave them a go and are now completely hooked. In Finland, the sauna is an institution — even a sacred space. There's also a religious dimension attached to it; it's the first building a family constructs. People speak of the spirit of the sauna: you cannot behave indecently inside, as it was believed that bad behaviour would anger the sauna spirits.
Smoke saunas, wood-burning stove saunas, electric saunas — we tried them all, or almost. But the first kind remains the most enjoyable: between the smell of the wood and the waves of heat, there's simply no comparison. Of course, you need a lake within easy reach to fully appreciate it and go back and forth like a ritual, just as the Finns do.
Frédérique and Le Yin came back from their holiday with an incredible wealth of memories! Read their full adventure cycling Finland by bike on the Le Chameau Bleu blog!
