Yoga pose at an enchanted spot © Bertrand Siess[/caption]
An hour's drive from the ocean, on the borders of Labourd and Navarre, at the foot of the Iparla ridgeline along the aerial route to Compostela, there exists a small, preserved paradise accessible only to those in the know… It's in this natural "sanctuary" that I will take you — where natural waterfalls rival the most beautiful rock pools, where griffon vultures can easily be spotted along vertiginous cliffs, and where the stories of smugglers and shepherds intertwine with the remains of Roman-era gold mines…
This green gem is open to all those curious about unspoilt nature, to lovers of isolated valleys and paths hidden beneath lush vegetation.
At the end of the hike, in a shaded clearing lulled by the soothing sound of the river, I offer an outdoor yoga session accessible to all… Nothing better to lighten body and mind, and soak even deeper into this magical place.
Walking and swimming in the heart of a lost valley, under the sharp gaze of the griffon vultures
The hike begins along Baztanko erreka (the Baztan river) with a spectacular panorama along the cliffs, where the slender silhouettes of dozens of griffon vultures are already etched against the sky. There, standing humbly, is Baxasagar (the farm of the wild apple trees), still in operation, with its famous iratze meta (fern haystacks).
An old pastoral path will lead us to errota (the mill) through open meadows and a few restored borde (sheepfolds). These border mills served from the Napoleonic era to supply troops right up to the retreat of 1813, then throughout the 19thth century during the Carlist civil wars in Spain. They were used to stock up during the constant back-and-forth of families, shepherds, smugglers and all manner of border crossers along this "administrative" frontier — so arbitrary for the Basque people.
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The magical swimming spot of Aritzacun© Bertrand Siess[/caption]
Near the dam and the dried-up millrace, the more adventurous can swim or cool off in the river that originally served as the natural border between Iparralde (the 3 northern Basque provinces, French side) and Hegoalde (the 4 southern Basque provinces, Spanish side). After crossing to the left bank, we will venture ever further upstream through waterfalls and lush vegetation, towards a village abandoned in the 1980s and gradually being restored.
This village (which still housed more than thirty families after the war!) was abandoned because the only way out of the valley to the south was closed to civilians. At the summit, on the plateau of Gorramendi (the red mountain), NATO forces had established themselves from the 1950s onwards, cutting off all escape routes for the local population. The surroundings of Gorramendi thus remained a kind of "terra incognita" on military maps until the installations were dismantled in the 1990s.
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Smugglers' path© Bertrand Siess[/caption]
The return journey will take you through the sasi (ferns and bushes) along a superb smugglers' balcony path, still passable thanks to the near-permanent presence of pottocks (small Basque mountain horses) and manex (a local dairy sheep breed). In the 1970s, on these kinds of border paths patrolled by a mobile — and more or less lenient and "cooperative" — customs service, dozens of herds of cattle and sheep crossed the border daily: Citroën spare parts heading south, lace heading north!
Climbing the forgotten muleteer's path to observe the vultures at their nesting sites
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One of the vulture observation outcrops © Bertrand Siess[/caption]
The most athletic visitors will have the option of heading directly up to the plateau via a steep path (450 metres) now abandoned by herds and carved into the rock with natural stone slabs. While the path may feel vertiginous to some, it remains a little-known royal route that allows you to observe griffon vulture nesting sites at close range, females on the nest, and even the soft down of juveniles with the naked eye! (from March onwards).
We are here in a natural reserve that is still accessible, home to more than 500 pairs of vultures finding both shelter… and sustenance! The Basque mountains are roamed by many grazing animals: pottocks (small Basque horses), ardiak (sheep), ahuntzak, behiak, urdeak (goats, cattle, pigs…). The vultures can thus more easily feed on natural carcasses or even voluntary charnel sites left by farmers at altitude, without having to travel hundreds of kilometres to find food. Furthermore, this historic site is a prime observation spot for wildlife enthusiasts…
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Walking with feet in the water© Bertrand Siess[/caption]
On the plateau at 650 metres, where the panorama opens southward all the way to Pic d'Orrhy (the highest peak in the Basque Country at 2,017 metres), overlooking two vertiginous waterfalls, the nascent rivers have carved into the relief and offer us superb micro-valleys rarely explored: Gardens of Eden beneath the shaded beech forest with brilliant light and natural rock pools…
We can follow the watercourse "feet in the water", at the heart of a dense and ever more vibrant nature along banks that have become impassable: an exotic hike even for the most seasoned adventurers!
Yoga session in an enchanting natural setting
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Outdoor yoga session in the heart of nature© Bertrand Siess[/caption]
At the end of the hike, to soak even deeper into such a striking landscape close to the ocean, there's nothing like a moment of silent relaxation for body and mind. Through simple attention to surrounding sounds and one's own breathing, following a few stretching postures, simple concentration exercises and a moment of relaxation, I will guide you above all towards a moment of inner presence, attuned to your own feelings.
Here is a hiking and yoga route I invite you to share in the Basque Country, always seeking more authenticity and a truer sense of self. For me, it is an endless wonder to share such captivating places that offer such a change of scenery to all kinds of visitors: from families with children to groups of sporty adults.
By way of introduction, I have been guiding groups in the mountains for 19 years and teaching traditional yoga on the Basque coast for 6 years. I chose to live and work in Euskal Herria, between Sea and Mountain, because it is a concentration of extraordinarily varied landscapes, combined with complex terrain, unpredictable weather, and of course a turbulent history and a richly colourful traditional culture.
For more information, feel free to visit my website and explore my photo album as well as other themed hiking routes. For your next holiday in the Basque Country, contact me by email.
Milesker Ikusarte, Thank you and see you soon, Bertrand SIESS
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