The first time I came to this mystical place was over twenty years ago, with my partner. I discovered it under a magnificent full moon, and needless to say I fell completely under the spell of the site — no less captivating in broad daylight!
[caption id="attachment_7466" align="alignleft" width="300"]
Réserve Naturelle de Saint Maurin © Andrea Bacher[/caption]
On a 2-hour hiking trip in the Saint Maurin Nature Reserve (where you will very often spend at least 4 hours on site thanks to the many stories and detours), set out to discover breathtaking nature and remarkable wildlife on a route accessible to all.
Explore this magnificent region with me — I never tire of coming back!
A reserve shaped by mysteries and legends
The history of this place remains a mystery, with only a few documents revealing the presence of a community of monks who lived here around the 10th century. Unfortunately, evidence is still scarce… The few written traces recorded about these monks bear witness to their journey from the Abbey of Saint-Victor in Marseille to the Gorges du Verdon, where they remained for several centuries.
[caption id="attachment_7470" align="alignleft" width="300"]
Saint Maurin © Andrea Bacher[/caption]
Other inhabitants, including shepherds, also lived in this place, dating back to prehistoric times. All of this is conjecture, yet the hypotheses are compelling enough to suggest that life has existed here since time immemorial. For instance, there remain traces of a medieval chapel, partially destroyed and excavated some time ago by amateur enthusiasts. It is said that people from the surrounding area came here to pray for rain. As a storm approached, rumblings could be heard…
However, a less extraordinary and more scientific explanation exists. On the Barbin plateau (situated above the site), water seeps in everywhere and passes through layers of limestone, creating what is known as a karst system. The water then reaches a waterproof layer — most often clay — and eventually re-emerges through a resurgence in the St Maurin cirque. This resurgence, which functions like a Vauclusian spring, incorporates a karst system that has been explored over several kilometres. That is why when a storm breaks in the distance, it is possible to hear its rumbling through the vast underground network.
Another distinctive feature of the reserve is the eternal quest for Templar treasure, which has certainly destroyed some remains due to the frenzy it has generated on site. The Quinson Prehistory Museum, among others, had planned excavations in the gorges, but the death of its director and budget cuts allocated to science unfortunately put paid to that project. No matter — it only adds to the magic of the place!
[caption id="attachment_7468" align="alignleft" width="300"]
Saint Maurin © Andrea Bacher[/caption]
The appeal of this place also comes from the emotions it evokes. When you visit this reserve, a sensation of coolness washes over you: permanent springs and temporary resurgences give this place an environment highly unusual for Provence. Indeed, you will discover a profusion of plants and mosses, caves and tufa — rocks formed from the precipitation of limestone dissolved in water.
Alongside the legends and powerful emotions of the place, breathtaking views will also be part of the experience on this hiking trip. A feast for the eyes, whether alone, with friends or with family!
A hiking trip at the heart of a "Regional Nature Reserve"
[caption id="attachment_7476" align="alignleft" width="300"]
Waterfall at Saint Maurin © Andrea Bacher[/caption]
Since 2009, the site has been classified as a Regional Nature Reserve to protect its environment. Certain areas are now off-limits, as are fires, bivouacs and the collection of plants and rocks. An initiative worth supporting for the protection of the site, though somewhat restrictive for mountain professionals, who add real value to your hiking experience by revealing things the average hiker never sees.
Rest assured, however! An agreement between mountain professionals and the site managers still allows me today to lead a hiking tour and an interesting visit of the site, where you discover far more with a guide!
The wildlife of St Maurin in the Gorges du Verdon
Since their reintroduction in 1999, numerous griffon vultures have nested on the tops of sheer cliff faces. In the skies above, other birds of prey can also be spotted, such as eagles and falcons, which will delight the curious and the passionate alike.
These walls are also well worth a visit! First climbing routes opened by pioneer climbers in the 1970s, the area is now closed for safety reasons. Nevertheless, the Gorges du Verdon remain a world-renowned paradise for climbers, offering lovers of heights a breathtaking view over the gorges!
[caption id="attachment_7472" align="alignleft" width="300"]
Green Lizard © Andrea Bacher[/caption]
Threatened by the appetite of birds of prey, reptiles and insects take shelter in the caves. And not just any caves — these clever creatures seek refuge in the inaccessible cliff faces. Game, meanwhile, tends to shelter in the surrounding forests, though I have often spotted chamois and roe deer on site, as they come here to drink.
Bat watching — the bats nest in the caves and cliff crevices — will also feature on this hiking trip, with several rare and protected species residing in the reserve. This moment of the hiking route will test the nerve of the faint-hearted! Generally speaking, the girls scream at the thought of these little creatures getting tangled in their hair — an old legend that lives on, much like the one about the wolf that eats children…
Endemic and abundant vegetation
Found here, among the many endemic plants of the Verdon, are the Sabline de Provence and the fern Asplenium jahandiezii, which has the distinctive trait of growing only within the gorges. Why? During the ice ages, many plants disappeared due to the cold, but in certain spots they managed to cling on and survive. This resilient fern is one of what we call "ecological niches".
[caption id="attachment_7482" align="alignleft" width="300"]
Lush flora at Saint Maurin © Andrea Bacher[/caption]
The vegetation of the reserve is extremely lush and the abundance of water has a lot to do with it! Mosses and ferns are plentiful, as is boxwood, a well-known small shrub that here grows to remarkable proportions! In the past, it was cut to make tool handles, pétanque balls, pipes and escarassons — the ancestors of our modern-day ladders.
The richness of its flora, fauna and history gives this place a mysterious atmosphere enhanced by a wild and secluded setting. Preserving this environment is more than necessary, for the good of nature and this exceptional site — so that it remains what it is: a hidden gem in a highly touristic area.
Finally, the village of La Palud sur Verdon, close to this remarkable site, also welcomes you to its ecomuseum, the "Maison des Gorges du Verdon". This visit can complement the hiking trip — I often include it at the start of the outing.
If you would like to share my passion for this place, get in touch:
- by email
- via the professional page of the village website: www.lapaludsurverdon.com
I will be delighted to take you there! Originally from Austria, I speak German and English. I also have experience leading outings with people with disabilities and hold a geology qualification in addition to my mountain guide certification.
If you don't have time to walk one of the paths at the bottom of the gorges, venture onto the famous Route des Crêtes, the D23, which loops from the village with numerous viewpoints!
See you soon, Andrea "Beachy" Bacher
Did you enjoy this article? Share your thoughts on the CimAlp Facebook page and spread the word — help more people discover your craft and your hikes!
