The ski touring season is kicking off right now with the first snowfall, and within a few weeks many of you will be getting to grips with the joys of touring and exploring wonderful spots against a backdrop of stunning scenery. But, as you know, nothing worthwhile comes easy — and while ski touring demands a fair amount of physical effort, it also requires a little preparation of your equipment, particularly your climbing skins. So here are a few tips and tricks to help you avoid ruining a day out due to poor preparation, and everything you need to know about this essential accessory.
Climbing skins aren't made from seal skin!
Natural seal skins were once used in northern Europe, but they are no longer in use today (thankfully) and have been replaced by either mohair fabric (Angora goat hair), a synthetic nylon-based fibre, or a blend of the two.
How climbing skins work
It's simple to understand: with the grain, the skin glides to move uphill, and against the grain, the fibres create a kind of grip that stops the ski from sliding back down the slope.
How to attach your climbing skins to your skis?
First, remove the plastic protection cover on the skin. Depending on the model, you start either at the ski tip or the heel, where you "clip" the skin into place. It is then stretched along the ski, making sure the edges don't overhang the sides, and pressed firmly onto the ski. At the other end, the skin is secured by a plastic tip with a tensioner that clips onto the ski.
How to remove climbing skins from your skis and fold them?
A climbing skin can last several seasons if it is properly protected. To achieve this, store it carefully away from dust and moisture. Remove the skin from the end with the plastic tip, peel it off carefully, and fold it in half with the glued surfaces pressed together, so they are protected.
How to re-glue a skin that comes unstuck at the heel during an outing?
During a ski touring outing, your skins are what stop you from sliding backwards. That said, your ski does still slip back slightly — just a few millimetres with each step. But after several hundred or thousands of steps, snow and ice can work their way between the tail of your ski and the tail of your skin. As you climb higher, the skin gradually peels away. To guard against this, head out with a double-sided patch, available in any mountain gear shop. It's very light and easy to use — a double-sided sticker you slip under the tail of the climbing skin when it has come unstuck.
How to fully re-glue a ski touring skin?
After a while, the adhesive under the skin starts to string when peeling away and leaves residue. This is a sign that it's time to re-glue your skins. Depending on how frequently you use your skis, you'll generally need to re-glue your skin once or twice per season. For 70% of skiers, once at the start of the season is more than enough. In any case, you'll notice when the grip on the ski is no longer as effective.
I recommend two methods for re-gluing your climbing skins:
• With a re-gluing spray: it's very easy to do, and although it's primarily intended to re-glue only part of the skin — as a light preventive measure or a quick fix — it can work perfectly well for a full re-glue. Simply buy a little more spray, available in any good mountain gear shop.
• With a glue roller and a clothes iron: this is the most effective technique and the one that lasts longest between re-glues. You need to scrape off the existing adhesive with a scraper (heated versions that melt the glue are available), then unroll the glue roller onto the ski. Run a slightly warm iron — not too hot — over the surface of the protective paper and leave it to set for 4 to 12 hours, then peel off the protective strip from the roller.
Day-to-day care of climbing skins
It's really important to take the time to fold your skins correctly after each outing and store them in a bag or plastic pouch to keep the dust off. The ideal is to use a dedicated storage sock, available from most retailers. In very cold conditions, before sticking the skins onto the ski, it's advisable to warm up the frozen self-adhesive skins against your body heat. The number one enemy of the adhesive is snow — so make sure you stick the skins onto a clean ski, free of snow, ice crystals and moisture. Also avoid drying the skins in direct heat (sunlight, radiator, refuge stove), as this affects the quality of the adhesive.
Mohair or synthetic?
Mohair has excellent glide but average durability. Synthetic offers excellent grip but average glide, while its durability is generally very good. The ideal choice today is a mixed skin that combines the best of both: favour skins containing around 70% mohair, as they offer better glide and greater comfort.
With these tips, you're all set for hours of pleasure (and effort) across our finest mountain ranges. Like any sport, ski touring requires good-quality, well-maintained equipment — it's the best way to avoid unnecessary struggle and, above all, to enjoy your sport with a clear head, free from worries about gear and logistics. Stay safe and enjoy the skiing!
