Back from an expedition in the Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru.
His passion for the Andes took hold more than 10 years ago during a year-long backpacking trip around Latin America. Since then, Stéphane has been sharing that passion in two ways: through photography (www.yunka-images.com) and by organising treks and expeditions (www.yunka-trek.com). His base camp is now Cusco, Peru, where he lives for a large part of the year.
Cimalp: Stéphane, what was one of the highlights of your 2014 season in the Andes?
Stéphane:
Last June we organised a lengthy expedition into the Cordillera Vilcanota for a group of 4 clients. It lasted 14 days in total. Vilcanota lies close to Cusco — a kind of last glacial fortress before the land plunges down towards the low Amazonian plains. In my view, it is one of the wildest cordilleras in Peru. It is best known for a popular trek, the tour of the Ausangate (5 days). Of course, this cordillera is a boundless playground with countless routes to explore. The expedition unfolded in two stages: first, a long traverse of the neighbouring cordilleras of Ccallangate and then Vilcanota; then, as the crowning moment, the ascent of Nevado Ausangate (6,383 m). Before attempting that ascent, we crossed 5 passes above 4,800 m and completed the non-technical ascent of an adjacent summit, Huayruro Punco (5,350 m), to fine-tune our acclimatisation and arrive in peak physical condition for the main climb.
Cimalp: How do you organise the logistics of an expedition like this?
Stéphane:
Due to its isolated and utterly wild character, the cordillera offers no resupply options along the way. We therefore set out from Cusco fully self-sufficient for the entire duration of the route. We are accompanied by mule driver friends from the village of Tinqui. For this expedition we had 3 muleteers and 10 mules. A trek cook is also part of the adventure. Food is particularly important on a long itinerary like this. We try to leave Cusco with as many fresh products as possible, and the cook does his utmost to vary the menus while ensuring participants receive a solid energy intake at key points in the day. As for our high-mountain guides (UIAGM), they met us at the Ausangate base camp on day 10.
Cimalp: How did the ascent of Ausangate go?
Stéphane:
The ascent unfolds in 3 stages: the approach to base camp (4,750 m), which we reached after our trek; the climb to high camp (or moraine camp) at 5,450 m; and then the ascent itself. The final push requires us to leave moraine camp around midnight. From there, we pick our way through the sometimes uncomfortable lip of the moraine, made up of fairly imposing rock blocks. We finally set foot on the glacier at around 5,600 m to tackle a steep slope (50–55°). Fixed ropes installed beforehand assist our progress up to the first col at 6,000 m. From there, a long, almost flat diagonal traverse awaits us (3 hours) to reach the second col and the summit ridge. One last short section — slightly exposed but equipped with fixed ropes — must then be crossed before finally reaching the summit of Ausangate at 6,383 m. We were at the top at 08:30 AM. The descent follows the same route (+6h00). The summit offers an absolutely breathtaking panorama over the Amazonian slopes, the Cusco valley, the surrounding cordilleras (Ccallangate, Vilcabamba…) and the altiplano stretching as far as the eye can see.
Cimalp: Is the technical equipment specific to a trip like this?
Stéphane:
We schedule this type of expedition between June and October. The best weather window is June — the coldest month — for technical ascents such as Ausangate. This period corresponds to the Andean winter. Nights are characterised by dry cold, while the days are very sunny. Temperatures can drop to –15°C at night. During the day it is not uncommon to hike in a t-shirt. For the trekking section, we recommend the classic kit: on the bottom, high-cut boots and technical trousers; on top, a base layer or technical t-shirt, complemented by a fleece jumper and above all a good jacket providing waterproofing and breathability (often stowed at the bottom of the pack). For the ascent section, in addition to the standard glacier travel equipment (rigid-sole boots, 12-point crampons, harness and accessories, 2 technical ice axes and helmet), we recommend combining a hardshell jacket and trousers for better thermal insulation.
Cimalp: Which products from our range do you typically use on trek?
Stéphane:
For my part, I wear your Stretch 3D Intrepide + trousers. They combine lightness, flexibility and quick drying. On cooler days, I layer them with tights for extra warmth. The cut is very fitted but its stretch makes it very comfortable. I also wear your 3-layer Dynamic 2 softshell jacket. It has never let me down over numerous treks across two seasons. Its membrane is highly effective and breathable, and the fleece lining makes it warm. Ideal at the start or end of the day. Worth noting is the hood (removable), which is particularly well designed and sits in perfect harmony with the jacket. A solid all-rounder.
For ascents and high-mountain use, I recommend your Softshell range (e.g. LAOS4) for trousers and a jacket from your Ultrashell range (e.g. VINSON) for the top. Highly technical products, perfectly suited to intensive use.
Cimalp: Finally, Stéphane, what are your plans for the coming season?
Stéphane:
To deepen our knowledge of the Cordillera Vilcanota, we are planning two new exploration trips in the coming months: one heading for the summit of Ninaparaco (5,807 m), the southern peak of the Pico Tres or Jatun Pampa group, and another to find a trekking access route from the Amazon basin towards that same cordillera.
