Back from an expedition in the Vilcanota mountain range, Peru.
His passion for the Andes took hold more than 10 years ago during a year-long backpacking trip through Latin America. Since then, Stéphane has never stopped sharing his passion in two ways: through photography (www.yunka-images.com) and through organising treks and expeditions (www.yunka-trek.com). His base camp is now Cusco in Peru, where he spends much of the year.
Cimalp: Stéphane, what was one of the highlights of your 2014 season in the Andes?
Stéphane:
Last June we organised a lengthy expedition for a group of 4 clients in the Vilcanota mountain range. It lasted 14 days in total. Vilcanota lies close to Cusco — a kind of ultimate glacial bastion before the land plunges down towards the low Amazonian plains. In my view, it is one of the wildest mountain ranges in Peru. It is known primarily for a trek that has become popular: the Ausangate circuit (5 days). Of course, this range is a limitless playground with numerous routes. The expedition unfolded in two stages: first, a long traverse of the neighbouring ranges of Ccallangate and then Vilcanota, followed by the centrepiece — the ascent of Nevado Ausangate (6,383 m). Before attempting this ascent, we crossed 5 passes above 4,800 m and completed the non-technical ascent of an adjacent summit, Huayruro Punco (5,350 m), to perfect our acclimatisation and arrive in peak physical condition for the main climb.
Cimalp: How is the logistics of such an expedition organised?
Stéphane:
Given its isolated and truly wild character, the mountain range offers no resupply opportunities along the way. We therefore set out from Cusco in complete self-sufficiency for the duration of the route. We are accompanied by muleteer friends from the village of Tinqui. For this expedition we had 3 muleteers and 10 mules. A trek cook is also part of the adventure. Food is particularly important on this kind of long itinerary. We try to set off with as many fresh products as possible from Cusco, and the cook works hard to vary the menus as much as possible, ensuring participants receive a good energy intake at key moments of the day. As for our high-altitude guides (UIAGM), they joined us at the Ausangate base camp on day 10.
Cimalp: How did the ascent of Ausangate go?
Stéphane:
The ascent takes place in 3 stages: the approach to base camp (4,750 m), which we reached after our trek; the climb to high camp (or moraine camp) at 5,450 m; and then the ascent itself. This final stage requires us to leave moraine camp around midnight. From there, we pick our way — sometimes uncomfortably — through the moraine lip, made up of quite impressive rocky blocks. We finally set foot on the glacier at an altitude of around 5,600 m to tackle a steep slope (50 to 55°). Fixed ropes installed beforehand help us progress to the first col at 6,000 m. From there, a long, almost flat diagonal traverse awaits us (3 hours) to reach the second col and the summit ridge. One final short section — somewhat exposed but equipped with fixed ropes — must then be crossed before finally reaching the summit of Ausangate at 6,383 m. We were at the top at 08:30 AM. The descent follows the same route (+ 6 hrs). The summit offers an absolutely stunning panorama over the Amazonian slopes, the Cusco valley, the surrounding ranges (Ccallangate, Vilcabamba…) and the altiplano stretching as far as the eye can see.
Cimalp: Is the technical equipment specific for such a trip?
Stéphane:
We schedule this type of expedition between June and October. The best weather window is June — the coldest month — for technical ascents such as that of Ausangate. This period corresponds to the Andean winter. Nights are characterised by dry cold, while the days are very sunny. Night temperatures can drop to –15°C. During the day it is not uncommon to walk in a t-shirt. For the trekking section, we recommend the classic kit: for the lower body, high-cut boots and technical trousers; for the upper body, a base layer or technical t-shirt, complemented by a fleece pullover and above all a good jacket providing waterproofness and breathability (often stowed at the bottom of the pack). For the ascent section, in addition to the standard glacier travel equipment (rigid-soled boots, 12-point crampons, harness and accessories, 2 technical ice axes and helmet), we advise combining a hardshell jacket and trousers for better thermal insulation.
Cimalp: Which products from our range do you typically use on a trek?
Stéphane:
For my part, I wear your Stretch 3D Intrepide + trousers. They combine lightness, flexibility and quick drying. On cooler days, I pair them with tights for extra warmth. The cut is very close-fitting, but their flexibility (stretch) makes them very comfortable. I also wear your 3-layer softshell Dynamic 2 jacket. It has never let me down across many treks over two seasons. Its membrane is highly effective and breathable, and its fleece lining makes it warm. Ideal at the start or end of the day. Worth noting: the hood (removable) is particularly well crafted and sits in perfect harmony with the jacket. A reliable go-to.
For ascents and high-altitude mountaineering, I recommend your softshell trouser range (such as the LAOS4) and for the upper body a jacket from your Ultrashell range (such as the VINSON). Highly technical products, perfectly suited to intensive use.
Cimalp: Finally, Stéphane, what are your plans for the coming season?
Stéphane:
To deepen our knowledge of the Vilcanota mountain range, we are planning two new exploratory trips in the coming months: one heading towards the summit of Ninaparaco (5,807 m), the southern summit of the Pico Tres or Jatun Pampa group, and the other to find a trekking access route from the Amazonian basin towards that same range.
