Back from an expedition in the Vilcanota range, Peru.
His passion for the Andes took hold more than 10 years ago during a year-long backpacking trip around Latin America. Since then, Stéphane has shared that passion in two ways: through photography (
www.yunka-images.com) and the organisation of treks and expeditions (
www.yunka-trek.com). His base camp is now Cusco in Peru, where he lives for most of the year.
Cimalp: Stéphane, what was one of the highlights of your 2014 season in the Andes?
Stéphane:
Last June we led a 14-day expedition for a group of 4 clients in the Vilcanota range. Vilcanota sits close to Cusco — a kind of last glacial stronghold before the land drops away towards the Amazonian lowlands. In my view, it is one of the wildest mountain ranges in Peru. It is known primarily for a trek that has grown in popularity: the Ausangate circuit (5 days). Of course, this range is a boundless playground with countless routes. The expedition unfolded in two stages: first, a grand traverse of the neighbouring ranges of Ccallangate and then Vilcanota; then, as the crowning achievement, the ascent of Nevado Ausangate (6,383 m). Before attempting this summit we crossed 5 passes above 4,800 m and made the non-technical ascent of an adjacent peak, Huayruro Punco (5,350 m), to fine-tune our acclimatisation and arrive in peak physical condition for the main climb.
Cimalp: How do you organise the logistics of an expedition like this?
Stéphane:
Given its isolated and utterly wild nature, the range offers no resupply options along the route. We therefore set off from Cusco fully self-sufficient for the entire journey. We are accompanied by muleteers from the village of Tinqui. For this expedition we had 3 muleteers and 10 mules. A trek cook is also part of the adventure. Food is particularly important on this kind of long-haul route. We try to leave with as much fresh produce from Cusco as possible, and the cook works hard to vary the menus, ensuring participants receive good energy intake at key moments of the day. Our high-mountain guides (UIAGM) joined us at the Ausangate base camp on day 10.
Cimalp: How did the Ausangate ascent go?
Stéphane:
This ascent unfolds in 3 stages: the approach to base camp (4,750 m), which we reached after our trek; the climb to high camp (or moraine camp) at 5,450 m; and then the ascent itself. The final push requires us to leave moraine camp around midnight. From there, we pick our way through a sometimes tricky moraine lip made up of impressively large rock blocks. We finally set foot on the glacier at around 5,600 m to tackle a steep slope (50–55°). Fixed ropes installed beforehand help us progress to the first col at 6,000 m. From there, a long, almost flat diagonal awaits us (3 hours) to reach the second col and the summit ridge. One last short but exposed pitch, equipped with fixed ropes, must then be climbed to finally reach the summit of Ausangate at 6,383 m. We stood on the summit at 08:30 AM. The descent follows the same route (+6h00). The summit rewards with an absolutely breathtaking panorama over the Amazonian slopes, the Cusco valley, the surrounding ranges (Ccallangate, Vilcabamba…) and the altiplano stretching as far as the eye can see.
Cimalp:Is technical equipment specific for such a trip?
Stéphane:
We schedule this type of expedition between June and October. The best weather window for technical ascents such as Ausangate is June, the coldest month, which corresponds to the Andean winter. Nights are characterised by dry cold, while days are gloriously sunny. Night temperatures can drop to –15°C. During the day, it is not uncommon to hike in a t-shirt. For the trekking section, we recommend the classic kit: for the lower body, high-ankle boots and technical trousers; for the upper body, a base layer or technical t-shirt, complemented by a fleece pullover and above all a good jacket guaranteeing waterproofing and breathability (often stowed in the bottom of your pack). For the ascent section, beyond the standard glacier travel equipment (rigid-shell boots, 12-point crampons, harness and accessories, 2 technical ice axes and helmet), we recommend combining a jacket and trouser of the
hardshell for better thermal insulation.
Cimalp: Which products from our range do you regularly use on trek?
Stéphane:
I use your Stretch 3D Intrepide + trouser. It combines lightness, flexibility and quick-drying performance. On cooler days, I pair it with tights for extra warmth. The cut is very fitted, but its stretch makes it comfortable. I also wear your 3-layer Dynamic 2 softshell jacket. It has never let me down over many treks across two seasons. The membrane is highly effective and breathable, and the inner fleece lining makes it warm — ideal at the start or end of the day. The hood (removable) deserves a special mention: beautifully made and a perfect fit with the jacket. A true go-to.
For ascents and high-mountain use, I recommend your Softshell range (e.g. LAOS4) for the lower body and a jacket from your ULTRASHELL range (e.g. VINSON) for the upper body. Highly refined products, perfectly suited to intensive use.
Cimalp: Finally Stéphane, what are your plans for the coming season?
Stéphane:
To deepen our knowledge of the Vilcanota range, we are planning two new exploratory trips in the coming months: one heading towards the summit of Ninaparaco (5,807 m), the southern summit of the Pico Tres or Jatun Pampa group, and another to find a trekking approach route from the Amazon basin towards that same range.
